Let’s Talk About Pomade
What is pomade? At its most basic level, pomade was hair grease. The greasy and waxy substance was used for a styling aid and moisturizer. For years pomade made our hair look slick and shiny at a heavy price. Heavier than gels and sprays, pomade weighed the hair down, stunted hair growth (for some), greased up our pillows and took several hours to wash out. It was removed using high detergent, sulfate-laden, moisture-stripping shampoos. Today’s pomades are totally different. They are lighter, much less greasy, full of natural and organic ingredients, better at growing hair and protecting hair against damage, and according to which company you find, they can be customized (Ingredients can be added or removed to your liking.). For decades, the main ingredient in pomade was petroleum jelly. Petroleum jelly is a mixture of hydrocarbons refined from crude oil or petroleum. It is the same petroleum used to make gas for automoblies, butane, jet fuel, diesel, plastics, motor oil, wax, tar, asphalt, tires, and paraffin wax. Although petroleum jelly slicked the hair down, it clogged the follicles.
Pomade was thought of and used as a moisturizer (it was applied to the hair and scalp), but it actually sealed moisture out of the hair because the molecules of petroleum were too big to penetrate the hair shaft. Once petroleum jelly was applied to the hair, no other form of moisture could penetrate the hair shaft. The moisture barrier resulted in hair dryness and breakage. When it was time to wash the hair grease out, it often required several washes with a sulfate (namely clarifying) shampoo, which stripped the cuticle, the hair’s outer covering, its lipid protective layer. All of the shampooing resulted in a loss of the hair’s natural oil, causing further dryness and weakness. Many modern pomades replace petroleum jelly with natural oils, light waxes and soft butters. The newer bases are indeed lighter, making them easier to remove with softer surfactants or even surfactant-free shampoos. They can now be removed from the hair during one wash. The newer bases can be both organic and vegan. These types of bases require no chemical processes or refinement to make.
The emollients in today’s newer pomades soften not just to the outer layers but the very highly structural and organized cortex, or middle layer of the hair, which is the primary source of hair strength. The absence of petrolatum, mineral oil, and parabens make the newer pomade bases healthier for your hair and body. Parabens, conversely, can cause skin irritation, contact dermatitis and rosacea. They have also been linked to breast cancer.
Outside of petroleum jelly, the older pomades typically consisted of mineral oil, and wax, with optional perfumes or colorants. None of that is good for the hair or scalp (especially since the scalp is skin and anything that is applied to the skin seeps into the pores). Now because of a consumer base that is much more aware of ingredients and their affects on the body, new healthy hair pomades are made with essential oils such as peppermint, rosemary, bergamot, nettle, and ylang-ylang, which are proven to grow hair. These essential oils are usually coupled with carrier oils such as emu, jojoba, avocado, and Aryuvedic oils such as amla and brahmi. Over the years, pomades have acquired a negative reputation because they were formulated with heavy and unnatural ingredients. However, pomades have several benefits. They offer excellent control when it comes to styling the hair and holding a style in place (braids, twists, buns, ponytails, etc.). Some stylists use it to help straighten curly and/or kinky hair.
The inclusion of ingredients like castor, coconut, and olive oils also help pomades to add shine. Pomades are not moisturizers, but they can be used as sealants to lock moisture into the hair. Pomades can be used as sealants when they are applied on top of a moisturizer (water-based product) or damp hair. Pomade with sulfur can be applied to the scalp to help grow your hair. Light pomades can replace alcohol-laden hair sprays, which are drying to the hair and bad for the environment.
The wonder of pomades are in their versatility. They can be used for: -Short hair -Long hair -Mid-length hair -Multi-textured hair -On curly and straight hair -To calm frizz -To slick down edges What’s not to love about pomade? I love it! I use it. My company makes it… for the love of pomade. It can help you grow beautiful healthy hair. This article is brought to you by the loving folks at The Pomade Shop who want to help everyone grow and retain healthy hair.
come meet Erma the owner of The Pomade Shop
The Wellness Though Beauty Style and Fashion Mixer 279 Flatbush Avenue Brooklyn, N.Y. June 30th 2012, 12 p.m. to 4 p.m.
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